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Find the answers to common questions about Tresco Lighting here. Don’t see what you’re looking for? Contact Us for a personal response to your query.
(1) Check the green indicator light on the transformer. A steady green light means it is getting proper power. A flashing light indicates that there is an issue (either with the transformer internally, or an external issue such as cutting wires or overloading the transformer). No light indicates no power and thus possibly a defective outlet.
(2) Check your connections. Go from the outlet down the line through the transformer and down to the lights, checking that you have no issues at each junction.
(3) Check your polarity. At each junction, ensure that your positives and negatives are aligned properly.
Yes. All Tresco lighting systems are registered and certified by ETL and/or UL. In addition, a majority of our individual lighting components (lights, power supplies, and accessories) are also registered and certified by ETL and/or UL.
This is not recommended and will instantly void the product warranty and safety listing.
A spread of at least 90° is recommended. Anything less than that is considered to be spot-lighting.
50% overlap is recommended. Darker surfaces may require even more overlap than reflective surfaces.
No. Tresco power supplies are Class 2, which allows our wires to remain exposed when ran anywhere throughout a room, however they are not permitted to be ran behind walls, ceilings, or floors.
In order to use a wall switch dimmer, you must use our magnetic DC-MGT60-CON power supply along with a standard LED wall dimmer or other magnetic low-voltage wall dimmers.
No. Because the power supplies generate heat, they will eventually burn the tape off.
15 feet. It is not recommended to use anything but Tresco brand extension/linking cords
While our power supplies will run properly when taken to the max (ex: loading 60W on a 60W power supply), it is not recommended and could reduce the life of the power supply
Since the 1W Pockit® is run on AC/DC current, there is no need to mark +/-. The wires will work either way.
This is because the mini converter that comes included was not used as instructed. Unfortunately, once this has been done there is no way to bring the LED’s back to their normal level.
Clean your surface thoroughly; use sandpaper to smooth out any rough surfaces; turn lights on for 5 minutes (high output) or 10 minutes (standard output) BEFORE attaching to the surface to allow the adhesive to warm up and strengthen its bond
Due to the nature of FlexTape, making several jumps using linking cords- or just a couple of “long” jumps – will cause voltage drop, meaning the lights will be progressively dimmer the farther they are from the power source as they continually lose voltage. There is no specific equation to calculate how many links would cause a noticeable drop, however it is recommended to have as few as possible and if long jumps are needed to then utilize another power supply instead of trying to link the lights to one supply.
(1) Make sure the dimmer box was not installed near anything motorized (i.e. refrigerator motor) or next to a large bundle of wires. Either of these may cause a radio frequency interference with the remote.
(2) Check your connections on each end of the box to ensure the wire is plugged all the way in.
(3) Refer to your instruction manual to check that your input/output wiring was done properly.
(4) Remote will only work when used within 30 feet of the dimmer box.
While it will still function properly, it is not recommended to install more than two dimmer boxes per universal remote.
When surface mounted, the Oval Door Sensor “eyes” must be installed no further than ¼” from the edge of the cabinet to avoid interference from the shelving.
Simply move the location of the sensor to the top shelf of the cabinet, and as far to the side of the shelf as possible.